Save Eco Destinations

View from the MAYAB Holistic Center and Educational Retreat

MAYAB Holistic Center and Educational Retreat, opening this month, educates its guests “about critical environmental issues facing the coastal ecosystems of the Sian Ka’an [Biosphere Reserve] and surrounding area.”

Eco education

This is crucial, and something I wish all eco hotels did. Think about it: what if someone wants to help the environment and so chooses to vacation at an eco hotel, but then wears regular sunscreen while checking out coral reefs? What if a couple celebrates their wedding on the coast of Quintana Roo, where so many severely endangered sea turtles go to nest? Or if people with good intentions visit bird sanctuaries and fail to keep their mouths shut? Noooooooo!

Disaster!

Violating the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve

However, Mayab was built just north of Tulum in the Yucatán Peninsula within the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, a 1.3 million-acre nature reserve that also hosts Mayan ruins. I know what you’re thinking: this does not sound ecologically auspicious, sustainable and green as Mayab may tout itself to be. I absolutely agree.

Building a hotel – eco or otherwise – within a natural reserve is egregiously intrusive and atrocious.

(I’m not even going to go into the accommodations set up by the Sian Ka’an reserve itself!)

Photo by Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve

Sure, founder Delainia Haug means well, but placing her premises within a UNESCO World Heritage Site sounds like more of a marketing move than an environmentally magnanimous one.

As the eco hotel’s website says, “Approximately 36,000 tourists entered the reserve in the year 2000, and those numbers are expected to increase significantly each year.” And don’t forget “The increase in tourism and overdevelopment are threatening this fragile habitat.”

Oh, and “In the summer three species of endangered sea turtles come ashore to build their nests here.” I don’t think tourists should be trusted to respect nesting sites, no matter how ostensibly ecologically mindful they may be. Staying at a hotel placed right by these sites – not to mention being responsible for it – is decidedly irresponsible, to say the least.

How, then, could building a hotel within the Sian Ka’an Biosphere be ecologically responsible?

The good stuff

Apart from educating its guests, Mayab filters its grey and black water, turning the latter into organic matter. It is also developing a solar generated power system, composts, and recycles.

Also, retreats and programs are held to increase awareness about environmental issues.

What do you think?

Is its presence within a reserve ecologically laudable or destructive?

Leave a comment here and contact Delainia to voice your thoughts!

Robin at Sevenoaks Wildlife Reserve

Sometimes it’s the little things that matter. Whether you consider yourself an eco expert or a newbie, skim this list in case there’s something new in there for you! And please feel free to add to it in the comments section.

This planet is yours, mine, and everyone else’s – this includes non-human animals. It is not anyone’s to trash. It is our home. Let’s humbly bow and thank our Mother Earth for sustaining us, and offer our efforts to be sustainable in return. Join in the cycle of life, not of destruction.

A natural bug repellent: Herbal Armor

Biodegradable skincare protects the environment – and you – from carcinogens e.g. parabens

When going to marine and wildlife reserves, many tour companies will ask that you slather on biodegradable sunblock and bug repellent for diving into the ocean and cenotes, going kayaking, and so on. It would be fantastic to adopt this preference constantly, though. It’s the same as littering: shouldn’t we refrain from littering all the time rather than only when we are asked to?

First of all, regular sunscreens bleach corals, which are already dying off at an alarming rate due to several factors, this one included, and also global warming, irresponsible human activities, and other types of pollution. So any time you get in the water — even into a pool, as all water ends up in the ocean eventually and it is not treated for toxic chemicals, and even less in remote areas such as Tulum and Xcacel Xcacelito — you would be helping to take care of the environment by using only environmentally-friendly products.

Last, I will reiterate that regular sunblock contains carcinogenic ingredients — that is, they cause cancer. You would thus be doing yourself a big favor by staying away from those products.

FYI: I found Hawaiian Tropic Biodegradable sunscreen in SPF 30 and 50 as well as a natural bug repellent in Tulum, on the road where myriad hotels are located on the coast. And you can, of course, find many such products online; for example, this bug repellent, this reef-safe biodegradable sunscreen, this deodorant, this shower gel, this shampoo, and this conditioner.  

Check your cosmetics and ingredients here for safety.

I am writing this post in reference to the last one, in which I began talking about my eco vacation in Tulum. There, I stayed at a largely sustainable hotel that *gasp* did not provide guests with electricity in their rooms (although you did get hot and cold water and wifi was available).

Waking up to the waves in Tulum

Here are 3 reasons not to be scared of electricity-free establishments and vacations:

1) You awaken to the gentle rays of the sunrise – no jarring alarm clock, no missing the cooler hours of the day. Your day becomes longer and …

2) The night lures you to sleep earlier and more smoothly. I cannot even tell you how much earlier I went to sleep when all I had to give me light were a few candles. My insomnia vanished. It was fantastic. It felt organic and peaceful.

3) You practically have no choice but to actively spend more time performing quality activities such as spending time face-to-face with the people you came with (not watching TV or playing video games but actively interacting with each other), reading, living in the moment, feeling more connected to the flows and ebbs of nature, day, and nightfall. And even though I brought along a fully charged iPod, not once did I opt for mp3s over the relaxing swooshes of the ocean.

And the heat? Stay by the coast and the relentless breeze will soothe you. Especially if you’re naked. Try it.

The beach in Tulum, with a hotel or two off to the side

We first arrived at Cancun Airport, got stood up by the shuttle service we had already paid for, freaked out, threw an exhausting tantrum, had a couple of cocktails, and finally found a solution to our dilemma.

But on to the fun stuff.

I am sorry to inform that the only way to reach Tulum from Cancun is via the use of vehicles that run on gasoline, and there is no airport in Tulum (yet). The trip can take between 1.5 and 3+ hours, depending on much you choose to spend (about USD 30 for a 3+ hour ride with transfers or USD 100+ for a comfy drive with AC just 1.5 hrs long).

You can also rent a car – and maybe find a hybrid one! It’s worth finding out if that’s what you would rather do.

Riding a bike would take so long you’d probably collapse from the heat and dehydration before getting anywhere. If it gets unbearable just standing beneath the morning sun, imagine what it would be like riding a bike with luggage on your back and for hours on end. And it’s not like the road between Cancun and Tulum is picturesque either – it’s very green, but nothing to write home about.

On to the green, largely sustainable hotel -

We finally arrived at our eco hotel, which did not provide us with any electricity except a fan in our room during the day and wi-fi (you could charge your computer, just not in your room, as there are no outlets – but believe me when I say that spending the vast majority of my day away from the computer was 100% liberating and relaxing).

Note: I will tell you why the no-electricity factor is nothing to be apprehensive about in my next post.

A little of the romantic magic in Tulum

We had hot and cold water in our room (but we barely used the hot water at all!). We really did not need AC (it was summer there: late August) and must have used the fan once, if that. The ocean breeze was spectacular and all you really need to feel refreshed.

Okay – our hotel was on the coast. If you stay in the town of Tulum, which is 6 km. away from the beach, the breeze will be less potent. All the hotels I could see in the town advertised AC, cable, and so on. But why go there when you can take a break and detox from “civilization”?

Let me tell you: I can’t remember a time I’ve been so intensely relaxed for so many consecutive days.

Tulum is paradise for beach and nature lovers – and history + anthro buffs too, as Mayan ruins abound. And there are activities – plenty of them (more on that in a later post) – but I basically used most of my time sitting by the waves, staring at them for hours, and letting their beauty flow into me as the sound of the crashing waves cleansed me from the inside out.

If you live in the area or are interested in sustainability within Mexico check out Green Expo Tulum 2009. (Scroll down for English.)

On August 7-8 you can expand your knowledge about sustainable living and show that you support sustainable construction and nature conservation in the area. Network, attend workshops, conferences, and – of course – morrrrrre.

Go go go!

I told you: rich white people

Land in Tulum is going up in price due to the upcoming development of Aldea Zamá and speculations as to the local  population increase to come. Realtors actually expect Tulum’s population to swell large enough to surpass Playa del Carmen’s!

Wouldn’t that be awful? It would stop being Tulum, essentially. It would become more polluted. It would become poisoned with corporate interests—and it would show—much to the dismay of the locals in particular.

Not to mention that it would be located right next to the ecological national park and archaeological sites. Yet there is not one mention of the development aiming to prevent damaging the environment or being at all ecologically mindful.

Aldea Zamá will be placed close to downtown Tulum, encompassing residential lands, green park areas and commercial community zones. This part of Tulum is having its infrastructure prepared to host the coming corporate plague. Details as to the infrastructure alteration are hiding somewhere.

The people in charge try to sugarcoat it, you know, by saying it will be cozy. Check it: “We don’t want the people feeling as if they are living in a resort, spring break city, we want them to feel as if they are in a home and within a home community,” said Francisco de La Torre, sales director of the project.

Hmmm.

As far as esthetics, the plan is to “embrace the Mayan ambience”—yet employ “contemporary styles.” Um, wouldn’t that kind of clash?

How is that supposed to “preserve the treasured Mayan cultural history”? Building freaking condos ain’t gonna do it!

They think meshing modern technology with “the skills of local artisans [and] indigenous materials” will make it fit flawlessly into Tulum. Yeah, and at the same time they will create a “European ambience.”

Are they stupid or lobotomized? No, wait: they just want your $. Clever fu**ers. I’m sure they’ll fool plenty of folks with their inconsistent promises.

So no wonder they expect the local population to increase—they’re building unsustainable condos for rich white people (come on, that’s their target demographic, you know it) at the expense of nature and archaeology.

Well that’s nothing new.

The only thing I like about Aldea Zamá is that they plan to encourage walking as the main mode of transportation…although even their model photo-illustration portrays a BMW right by the shops–but wait–I thought everything was going to be walking distance?

Oh, right: they lied.

A colorful map of QR from seamonkeybusiness.com

Mexico reopened a lot of its archaeological sites and museums to the public yesterday thanks to the authorization of the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), said State Tourism Secretary Sara Latife Ruiz. The sites had been closed since April 29.

About time!

Quintana Roo INAH Delegate Adriana Velásquez Morlet said the following have been greenlighted:

• Museum of the Maya Culture in Chetumal
• El Rey and El Meco in Cancún
• San Gervasio and El Cedral in Cozumel
• Tulum and Coba in Riviera Maya
• Chacchoben, Kohunlich, Kinichná, Dzibanché, Oxtankah, Xpuhil and The Fort of San Felipe Bacalar in the south

I hope you’re happy because I’m still getting partly screwed: the Tulum by Night show hasn’t even been given a date for making its comeback.

Chichén Itzá

In Yucatán, Chichén Itzá has reopened. Apparently it’s one of the new 7 wonders of the world. I should check it out.

Speaking of which—how do the forces of the universe (ha) choose what comprises a wonder, why are there new ones, and why still 7 instead of adding to the list? I’m sure there are very boring answers to those questions.

Anyway, after widespread piggy flu P-A-N-I-C throughout Mexico (in vain, I tell you, in vainnn!) most of the Caribbean portion of QR is returning to normal—bars, restaurants, shops (I’m sure the shopaholics reading this have a smile on their faces now, eh?), and other “tourist attractions.”

High schools and universities reopen tomorrow, Thursday 5/7 and the little ones go back to class starting Monday.

Cancun Intl Airport

The Ministry of Health assures the country is fading out of the disease.

Poor Mexico, so stigmatized when the swine flu is really no more dangerous than the regular flu. (Oh, yes—you better expect a whole post on that.)

At least the intl. airport in Cancun (CUN) got 99 flights (arrivals + departures) today alone. Wait for me, CUN, I’ll be there soon!!

With so many tourists making the idyllic beaches of Quintana Roo-Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, etc. their destinations, they are taking a toll on the local endangered sea turtles.

As well, it’s become fashionable to celebrate weddings and honeymoons on these coasts. (Hey, I don’t blame these people – those coasts are gorgeous!)

In packed places like Cancun and Playa del Carmen, beaches are swamped with hotels, condos, restaurants, and other tourist attractions that exude bright lights and noise pollution. Severe beach erosions have also damaged or destroyed many of the turtles’ nesting sites.

Some biologists have shown laudable dedication and worked to coax some establishments into adopting certain turtle-friendly measures (ok, less turtle-hostile measures). These include putting out or redirecting their lights, withdrawing camastros, chairs and other portable furniture, and advising guests and employees to stay away from the turtles altogether. These measures are crucial, as anything that hinders turtles’ reproductive activities further endangers these animals.

Fortunately, these serene turtles can still count on Tulum and nearby beaches for respite. Since this part of the coast is less ridden with resorts and other buildings, the area provides turtles with a more tranquil habitat.

It is still necessary, however, for turtles to have pristine and peaceful havens if they are to reproduce at normal rates (which are already low!). For this purpose, there do exist certain restricted areas, although they do remain largely unsupervised.

How coastal weddings harm turtles

Habitually, weddings and their corresponding celebrations take place at night – turning normally dark, deserted, and quiet beaches into bright, loud, and chaotic spaces. These wedding practices screw with turtles’ spawning rituals, causing the animals to return to sea without taking care of their reproductive business.

Baby turtles at night

Exacerbating this is the fact that both turtle spawning season and low tourist season (during which flight and hotel reservation costs drop, which draws tourists in) coincide. Both seasons begin in April-May.

As you’ve probably already guessed, no legal restrictions exist in Mexico to protect sea turtles from such situations. Celebrations may legally take place any time of the year on any beach at any time. Sweet, huh? Not for the turtles!

At one point, Tulum was under the influence of rules that protected turtles during spawning season. But now they are obsolete. Many greedy hotel owners choose to invite their guests to do whatever the hell they please as long as they pony up the money, instead of respecting Mother Nature.

At the same time, there are some conscientious hotel owners make efforts to protect local ecosystems and thus prohibit noisy and bright events that would take place after dark. This is another reason to stay at an eco-hotel wherever and whenever you travel.  (Please check the “Lodging” category for posts with links to some eco-hotels around the world and peruse our blogroll, directories, and organizations lists on the right-hand column.)

Sea turtle populations on the Mexican Caribbean have already declined drastically from their original numbers. We owe it to our planet to play eco-nice.

You can read more on the issue here, and about the Xcacel-Xcacelito red alert here, here, here, and here.

UPDATE: 1 May, QR remains swine-flu free.

Happily, although Mexico D.F. and other parts are hosting people infected with the swine flu, Quintana Roo is home safe.

The trouble is that some people must fly through D.F. to get to QR. But, if you’re lucky and can just fly in through Cancún, you’re in the clear. (Still, if you’re in good health and take the proper precautions, even if you fly in through D.F., you should be fine.)

The QR State Secretary of Tourism has announced that the state is swine flu-free. Not a single case has been reported in the area. Beautiful.

Mexico’s Ministry of Health continues to monitor check points at airports, cruise and bus terminals and the more than 77,000 hotel rooms (whoa) operating in QR. Read the full text here.

All schools in Mexico-so in QR as well, are closed. However, I’ve been reading that in Tulum, “people are in the streets as usual, eating beside each other at the open-air food stands, and nobody is wearing masks.” Fabulous.  Speaking of walk-by sights, there is a new park on Avenida Tulum! It used to be a construction site, but now it holds a lively playground.

A few people are, perhaps as expected, canceling reservations in the area, but I’d wager it’s happening a lot more northwest of the Yucatán Peninsula. After all, Mexico is a big place! And the main “scary” part right now is D.F., far off from Tulum and Cancún.

Thus far, the party is on in QR–so if you’ve got reservations, as long as you take your vitamin C tablets, wash your hands thoroughly and often and stay away from sick people, you ought to be just fine. Enjoy the beach!

And just for the record, I am flying in to Quintana Roo through D.F. next week. Damn swine flu isn’t going to ruin my vacation!